Here are the top 3 active ingredients against redness, according to an expert – Elle

It’s common to blush when you feel discomfort, but if the rash occurs under other circumstances that’s another story. Witnessing inflammation of the skin, it often reacts to defend itself against external aggression. Elodie Valin, director of Naos Scientific Valorization (Bioderma, Institut Esthederm, Etat Pur), explains to us: “Skin cells produce pro-inflammatory cytokines, which are molecules responsible for the activation of chain reactions that result in sensations of warmth, sometimes pain, swelling and finally redness. Redness occurs.” Its appearance is mainly due to the expansion of blood vessels that occurs during the inflammatory process. These rashes are sometimes one of the clinical signs of skin pathologies such as rosacea. »

The first step is to identify when these rashes appear on the skin. Did it happen after a very hot shower? Or when it’s windy outside? Or when you wear perfume? Protecting and isolating from external factors will reduce skin redness. However, it is also possible to use some effective active ingredients. Three things that could improve the situation, according to our expert:

The best active ingredients against redness

Glycyrrhetinic acid

This molecule, derived from licorice root and known for its calming properties, plays an important role in inflammation at three levels:
– by inhibiting cortisol-cortisone conversion. In fact, the skin can convert cortisol into cortisone, which inhibits stages of the inflammatory response. Inflammation is triggered when there is more cortisone than cortisol.
– By limiting histamine synthesis, which plays a role in vasodilation. This reduces redness.
– By reducing the release of components that cause pain and redness. »

azelaic acid

“This molecule is recognized in dermatology for being very effective in treating rosacea. Indeed, it has soothing properties by inhibiting the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines and limiting certain markers of rosacea.”
There are no specific contraindications, but you should still avoid the eye area and mucous membranes. If your skin is really sensitive, you can test azelaic acid on a small part of the forearm to check if the skin tolerates it well. »

Green tea extract (Camellia Sinensis)

“It is also an active ingredient known to limit redness. In fact, it contains a polyphenol (Epigallo-catechin gallate or EGCG) with numerous biological properties (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory).
EGCG directly limits the production of VEGF, a protein whose role is to trigger the formation of new blood vessels. Thus, the network of micro blood vessels is less dense, reducing blood flow and reducing redness. »

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