Pomellato, Vhernier, Buccellati: the Milanese have three jewels

This trio, consisting of big names in the industry, spreads this unrivaled Milanese elegance all over the world with their creations that are as simple as sculptural, as free as luxurious, as exclusive as they are unique. Triple proof.

Italy, the other country of fashion, is also the other country of jewellery. The first is that most of the precious jewelery sold in historic French houses is produced here, especially in the Valenza and Vicenza region. Bulgari, later one of the world’s largest jewelers, was born in Rome and established itself by dreaming of generations of Cinecittà actresses. But it is also because the three big names in the industry, Pomellato, Vhernier and Buccellati – each in their own way – have spread around the world, this unrivaled Milanese chic is as unique as it is exclusive, with creations that are as simple as they are sculptural, as free as they are luxurious. Triple proof.

Fashion jewel Pomellato

In Milan since 1967. pomellato builds its identity. Its founder, Pino Rabolini, introduced the concept of fashion jewelry to the avant-garde, inspired by the creativity of the artists he met in the Jamaican bar and the freedom of life of Italy’s ready-made clothing capital. conservative and traditional jewelery world. The unique design of his creations, their generous shapes and the color associations they inject quickly seduce. donna The elegance of the Lombard city. Last July, her fourth high jewelery collection, led by creative director Vincenzo Castaldo, marked a turning point in her aesthetic. The jeweler sharpens the angles of his necklaces and cuffs to pay homage to the city’s architecture and express its skyline with pure, geometric lines; the reflection of light on its buildings made of spinels, tourmalines and tanzanites. “ This collection, Ode to Milan, celebrates our belonging to the city and our heritageThe man who has been an artistic director for twenty years explains this. Simple lines are, of course, less expected, but always enhanced by the volume of colored stones. This is Pomellato’s signature and the secret to giving jewelery sensuality when worn. »

Pomellato’s Together collection is aimed at the new generation. pomellato

It’s the same story for fine jewellery, through Neera, the woman Vincenzo Castaldo spoke to in the workshops of Milan’s Casa Pomellato – where the creations are made – became rejuvenated. “ Milanese have a modest and simple idea of ​​elegance. A spontaneous but very stylish silhouette. An attitude based on strong clothes like Prada’s, gestures and jewelery that are restrained and sincere rather than ostentatious.» If the famous plump Nudo solitaires continue to gain color on the counters and between jewelers’ fingers, it will make room for other creations with minimalist designs. Like the Iconica link bracelets, where a single prisoner is “dusted” with diamonds using the Sabbia irregular laying technique, the Together link rings, or the fun Catene chains to pile up around the neck or separate into bracelets. “ We’re a bit like the young people on Place Vendôme He laughs. A brand that emphasizes very traditional know-how in colorful or all-gold jewelery in a conservative environment, but is never flashy and does not follow the rules for free and modern women.»

Vhernier, jewelery with unique design and simple elegance

vernierIt is what we call a fashion insider brand, with its very radical collections, controlled distribution and free, confident customers who want to stand out. Since its founding in 1984 by jewelery enthusiast and artist Angela Camurati, the brand has had a unique approach with its collections designed like gold and stone sculptures. Strong jewellery, but pieces that do not seek to represent a display of power, that contain great sensuality but are not ostentatious. Not too far from the contours of the style ragazzaFrom Brera or Via Monte Napoleon. “For me, what is unique about Milan in our collections lies in the bold volumes, unique shapes and strong but rarely mixed colours, the mix of design and understated elegance that this city represents.That sums up Isabella Traglio, herself a pure Milanese and the director of creation and product development of this brand, which was acquired by her father and uncle in 2001.A Vhernier piece of jewelery is different. We are not followers. Moreover, our customers often do not like traditional jewelry and our collections are not produced specifically for every woman.»

Eclisse Endless earrings made of yellow gold and titanium from Vhernier. vernier

As a result, fans of the brand, whether from Milan, Paris or California, are often unconditional fans who exclusively wear these divine rings like golden ribbons, these geometric earrings decorated with a slice of stone. Color or these treasures encrusted with diamonds in a setting that gives an addictive velvety finish. They are also attracted to alternative materials such as titanium or ebony and quickly become fascinated by their ergonomic shape, which makes them very comfortable despite their bulk. They also know very well that this apparent simplicity exists only at the expense of hard work, from creation to production.

Buccellati, the jewel of Milanese craftsmanship

This non-exhaustive tour of Milan jewelers would not be complete and serious if it did not include: buccellati, “prince of jewelers”. Founded just over a century ago in the Lombard capital, this family home was acquired by the Richemont group in 2019, leaving many members of the third and fourth generations in key positions. Although its most successful store has historically been in Paris, the jeweler offers collections that pay tribute to Milanese craftsmanship. Renaissance architecture and princely fabrics continue to be the main source of inspiration for rings made of golden tulle obtained after hundreds of hours of work, or cuffs with damask motifs.

Talita von Fürstenberg, Buccellati’s new ambassador, wears cocktail rings and embroidered earrings. buccellati

Success has not been denied for two decades. “The company has never had as many employees as it does today, demand is ever increasing, but efficiency is a real issue for us because so much of the jewelery is handmade.underlines Andrea Buccellati, director of creation and production, who joined the family business almost fifty years ago.We adapt our production capabilities but never compromise on quality and style. We recognize the Buccellati jewel from afar, it is our most precious power.» Masters are also trained in the workshops in the new headquarters building in Milan. Here they learn and will soon be able to work independently at home as required by the company’s organization. And promote Milan’s excellence.

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